I only became aware of Pitti when I entered menswear circles several years ago, but each time I saw a picture I would just shake my head. Yes, the outfits were intentional and “impressive”, but I still thought they were doing too much. 

These days, I understand I was watching people speak a language I don’t speak.

First of all, Pitti style is deeply semiotic. Every detail carries meaning. The fabric texture, color combinations, accessories. The outfits function like visual sentences, signaling knowledge and distinction.

It’s clothing as communication.

But, I don’t use clothing as communication though.

When I looked at Pitti style, I was sensing activation: high contrast, layered textures, sharp tailoring, multiple focal points. It’s like someone turned the lights and volume up at the same time.

Turns out I didn’t dislike it because it was “tacky”. I disliked how activated I felt looking at it.

This also explains why I was drawn to Noboru Kakuta, who appears in that same environment. Compared to many Pitti outfits, his looks read quieter, more grounded. He does not appear to be making a statement.

Recognizing the difference between  semiotic and somatic dressing helped me stop arguing with Pitti altogether. The men at Pitti aren’t doing anything wrong. They’re just playing a different game. Once I understood that, I could appreciate what they were doing without feeling the need to do it myself.